Chapter 24
The Great Wall of Train
01a - Introduction
01b - The Mysterious Ski Rack
01c - Wheres the Other Half of That Moose
01d - Scorpions Scorpio
01e - The Waiter Who Didnt Yall
02a - Can I Get a Diet Soda
02b - Riding Into the Sunrise
03 - Modesty at Any Price
04 - Driving Down to Houston
05a - What Does That Sign Say
05b - The State Tree
05c - They Call It the Sunbelt
05d - Just Follow Your Nose
06 - The New House
07a - Billboards
07b - Billboards Again
08 - Stereo Upgrade
09 - Local Wineries
10 - Unintentionally Left Blank
11 - CBW in TX
12 - Ice House Radio
13 - Goats and Cotton
14 - Dig We Must
15 - Dan Moody
16 - Dry Heat
17 - Dead Animals We Have Known
18a - Bookstore Culture
18b - On the Open Road
19 - Weather
20 - Sightings in Bertram and Buchanan
21 - Too Many Birds
22 - Road Hazards
23 - Sightings To And From Houston
24 - The Great Wall of Train
25 - In the Heat of the Day
26 - Bite Me
27 - Bid on This Skeleton
28 - Willie Al Fresco
29 - Rural Countryside
30 - SUV SUX!
31 - Kinky on the Texas Monthly Hour
32 - Strange Yellow Sky
33 - Football is a Serious Enterprise in Texas
34 - Remember the Alamoo!
35 - What Was That on the Radio
36 - Trip to Houston Through Small Towns
37 - Shoe Story
38 - Unintended Fireworks
39 - Flash Flood Warning
40 - Sin City
41 - Live Music in Austin But Not in Clubs
42 - Fear of Overpass
43 - The Big Sneezy
44 - New Texas
45 - Front Ended by the French Fry Mobile
46 - Dirt Farm
47 - Heard at the Texas Book Festival 2008
48 - Heard at the Texas Book Festival 2009
49 - Central Time Sucks
50 - Temple Texas
51 - Christmas in Austin
52 - Pennants in the Wind
53 - The Road Less Traveled
54 - Texas-size Thunderstorm
55 - Cool Van
56 - Your New House is That-A-Way
57 - CSI Austin
58 - New MTV Game Show
59 - Equine Technology
60 - Look at That Prairie
61 - Get Your Water Here
62 - Corporate Anniversaries
63 - College Sprawl
64 - Hire These Guys
65 - Preparing for Winter
66 - Careful What You Overhear
67 - Bonnie Raitt
68 - Perfume
69 - Questionable Skills
70 - All-American Day
71 - Read Me
72 - Weird Fog
73 - Overpackaged Food
74 - What Town Was That
75 - Texas Book Festival 2010
76 - Bulletproof Roof
77 - The Oldest Photo
78 - Cheesesteaks Part 1
79 - Cheesesteaks Part 2
80 - Sure We Got Culture
81 - A Message to Gyno-Americans
82 - The cathedral of Junk

Cold drinks, hot dogs, drive-thru beer

The landscape is divided by the Great Wall of train. Hundreds of parked railroad cars, hundreds, as far as we can see on both directions, several miles. The cars are all the same closed-container type with no markings, just a plain white hot dog on wheels with an access door at the top center. What they transport in these cars, I have no idea. The whole train must have been parked there for a long time, at least days, probably weeks. It is clearly a semi-permanent fixture on this landscape. How can one tell? Well, there are grade crossings here at every road. Bridges and overpasses are too expensive and just not called for by the minimal traffic, either rail or road. As we drive along the train, we see that it is deliberately broken at every grade crossing. The cars are disconnected and moved far enough apart so that every little road, whether blacktop or dirt, is unobstructed. This went on for the three miles we saw, paved roads and dirt paths just the same. Doing that to the train must take a fair amount of work, positioning the train just so, setting the brakes, uncoupling at some point, moving forward just enough, then uncoupling at the next crossing, and on and on for the several dozen roads. How bizarre, I thought, but that's the price of having a parking lot for rail cars right across someone's farm.

Driving around the small farming towns near the train, we pass a convenience store with signs in the window: cold drinks, hot dogs, drive-thru beer. Has a nice cadence to it. But it cannot compete with the store we saw in Maine, a true classic, with its wonderfully expressive and culturally sensitive sign: Beer, Guns, Wedding Dresses. But I digress.

The fields around these towns are filled with dunno what, our yankee ignorance showing through, a plant about four feet high. The bottom three feet look just like corn, clearly a grass family plant, same sorts of leaves, but all stop at the same height. On top is a single foot high finial of seeds, twelve inches long, three inches in diameter at the bottom, pointing straight up, tapered at both ends, sort of a large, nubbly, brown cucumber. Hundreds, maybe thousands of brown, slightly reddish seeds. Not corn, pretty clearly: this is not an ear, and there's only one, just one big bunch of seeds, all stuck together now, but they will part and sway in the breeze soon enough. We guess. Maize? No, we think that that grows like corn, in ears and multiple ears per stalk. Barley? Millet? Neither of us is sufficiently countrified to know what these look like. Wheat and oats and alfalfa we've seen, but not the more exotic grains.

When I say they're all the same size, I really mean within a few inches. Leaves stop at three feet, topped with these giant seed pods, all but maybe one plant in a thousand. Look over a couple acres of this plant, and there are a handful of mutants, maybe two-three, that put up a tall, skinny shoot maybe eight feet up, with a small seed tassel on the top. Or maybe there's just one lonely yucca plant in the middle of the field crying out for attention. They -- the yuccas -- bloomed a few weeks ago and driving down the road, you really notice how common the plant is because of the shoots. Even small yuccas that you'd never notice among the grasses on the side of the road put up six to eight foot stalks for their flowers.

sorghum with some heads sticking up

Back to the mystery crop. Turns out it's sorghum. Heard of it, but never seen it before. It isn't grown up in the Middle Atlantic states or New England, so we have no idea. I ask some of the local boys at work, especially the Aggies, and they pin it down as grain sorghum, a very popular crop. I have pictures, which I will include. The huge tassel of seeds does get loose and wave in the breeze when fully ripe, and I guess the seeds get eaten and scattered. Most of the pictures on the web were not that similar to the plants and fields that we saw, but the grower's association has a logo that is remarkably like the plants at just this stage of development (end of July).

BTW, the term "maize," one of the Aggies informs me, is often used as a general term for many grain crops. If it's some sort of grain, but doesn't look like wheat, call it maize.

In any case, one wonders about the genetic diversity of these crop plants if the fields are so uniform, with just the occasional mutant. Let's hope, for the sake of cows everywhere, that whatever narrow hybrid these seeds are from is resistant to all the diseases and pests for the next couple decades.

Much of the sorghum is planted in straight rows, or slightly curved, that stand out when you look at them from the car. Rows of brown-orange heads alternating with rows of yellow-green leaves. If you're driving at moderate speed, there's a stroboscopic effect of the flashing rows, the leaves being much brighter than the seeds. Hypnotic to watch. In the afternoon sun, the leaves are shiny, almost glow. And in the late summer in central Texas, there is nothing but sun. Bright rows of leaves, bordered by dark rows of seeds, white stripes converging into the distance to a vanishing point right on the horizon. If you're lucky, a stand of trees gets in the way, disturbs the geometric almost perfection of the striped landscape in perspective meeting the featureless sky in a straight, flat line.

many rows of sorghum into the distance

Copyright (C) 2000, 2001, 2002, Richard Ball Landau. All rights reserved.